Eleven years ago, a few weeks after the fall of Saddam, I drove from Amman through the eastern Jordanian desert and into Iraq, where I stopped in the westernmost town, Rutbah, an old refueling stop for Imperial Airways flights from Britain to India, and had a bite to eat at a cafe whose patron had a trilby pushed back on his head Sinatra-style. (It was the first stop on a motoring tour that took me through Ramadi and Fallujah and up to Tikrit and various other towns.)
In those days, the Iraqi side of the border post was manned by US troops. An “immigration official” from the 3rd Armored Cavalry Regiment glanced at my Canadian passport, exchanged a few pleasantries, and waved me through.
That same border post today is manned by head-hacking jihadists from ISIS:
Fighters from the Islamic State in Iraq and the Levant, an al-Qaeda breakaway group, took all the border crossings with Jordan and Syria, Hameed Ahmed Hashim, a member of the Anbar provincial council, said by telephone yesterday. Militants took Rutba, about 145 kilometers (90 miles) east of the Jordanian border, Faleh al-Issawi, the deputy chief of the council, said by phone. Anbar province in western Iraq borders both countries. The Jordanian army didn’t immediately respond to a request for information about the situation on the border.
I should think not. The Jordanian official I met was charming if somewhat bureaucratically obstructive, and wound up asking me about how difficult it was to emigrate to Canada. More difficult than emigrating from Syria to Iraq:
Rutba gives ISIS control over a stretch of highway to Jordan that has fallen into infrequent use over the past several months because of the deteriorating security situation. The town has a population of 40,000, but it has recently absorbed 20,000 people displaced from Fallujah and Ramadi.