http://www.weeklystandard.com/articles/russia-s-long-shadow_782757.html?nopager=1
Tallinn
The modern name of Estonias capital is thought to come from Tallide-linn, city of stables in the countrys tongue, or Taani-linn, meaning Danish castle-town. The lovely old center, a medieval trading city, is splashed in summer with light and color, Im told. Cafés bustle. In winter, though, Tallinn is bleak. Im here in fog, sleet, and rain. The streets are mostly empty by early evening, as everyone seems to be hobbited away with warm fires and ice-cold vodka.
Estonia is a country of glaring contrasts. Try to size it up today and one is reminded of Boris Yeltsins assessment of the Russian economy in the 1990s. Asked by a journalist about the state of play, the president answered, Good. When pressed for more than a one-word response, Yeltsin replied, Not good.
For this tiny country of 1.3 million, things are, from one perspective, excellent indeed. Since independence in 1991, Estonia has welcomed democracy and a market economy, become a member of NATO and the European Union, and adopted the euro. The country exudes modernity, consumerism, and freedom. Theres wireless Internet nearly everywhereparks, pubs, squares, beaches, forestsand nearly always free. When you walk through Tallinn Airport, you feel like youre in a trendy version of an Ikea store, with semi-inviting cafés, book alcoves, ready-to-use iPads.