A Globe-Trotting Celebration of Erudition
Claudio Magris unleashes a lifetime of encyclopedic learning on the page in his magnificent ‘Danube: A Sentimental Journey From the Source to the Black Sea.’
The real adventure of travel is intellectual. Heart-stopping landscapes invite research into their history and culture, and books pile up in one’s library. Rebecca West’s “Black Lamb and Grey Falcon” (1940) and Patrick Leigh Fermor’s “Mani” (1958) and “Roumeli” (1966) are memorable travel books in large measure because they celebrate erudition. But arguably the supreme example of this category is Claudio Magris’s “Danube: A Sentimental Journey From the Source to the Black Sea,” published in Italian in 1986 and translated into English by Patrick Creagh in 1989. Mr. Magris is an academic from Trieste, that quintessential Central European city, although located on Italy’s Adriatic coast. Every spot along the Danube provides an opportunity for him to unleash a lifetime of encyclopedic learning on the page. Mr. Magris is periodically mentioned as a possibility to win the Nobel Prize in Literature: It is primarily because of this one book, which is not even a novel.
Whereas the Rhine, he writes, “is Siegfried, symbol of Germanic virtus and purity, the loyalty of the Niebelungs, chivalric heroism,” the Danube “is Pannonia, the kingdom of Atilla, the eastern, Asiatic tide.” More pointedly, the Rhine is about the “purity” of one race; while the Danube, with its link to the Austrian Habsburg Empire, evokes a “supranational culture” beyond ethnicity. In this way, he explains, the German language forever maintains the possibility to connote universal values. This Austrian mind-set, both imperial and cosmopolitan, rooted as it is in a specific landscape, recognizes the “stupid nonsense” that is postmodernism, “while accepting it as inevitable.”